Bayon Temple

The architectural design of Bayon is markedly distinct from that of Angkor Wat and other temples within the Angkor complex, having experienced numerous alterations and enhancements throughout its history. In contrast to the grand exterior of Angkor Wat, Bayon does not present a particularly striking appearance from afar; its true beauty becomes apparent only upon entering the temple.

While the majority of Angkor temples are oriented towards the four cardinal directions, the face towers of Bayon appear to be directed in various orientations. Although most of these towers feature four faces, some possess only two or three, and the central tower boasts an even greater number. The total count of face towers seems to be arbitrary, leading to some debate regarding the original number of towers designed for the temple. Some scholars suggest there were 49, while others propose a figure of 54. One interpretation posits that each tower represented one of the 54 provinces of the Khmer Empire at the time of the temple’s construction, symbolically overseeing the kingdom’s inhabitants. However, due to the passage of time, only 37 of these towers remain standing today.

The temple is enclosed by two elaborately adorned galleries: the outer gallery illustrates scenes of battles and historical events alongside depictions of daily life, while the inner gallery focuses on mythological narratives. The exquisite bas-relief carvings display an impressive level of detail, featuring over 11,000 figures. The inner gallery, which was added by the Hindu King Jayavarman VIII, is elevated above the ground, and the upper terrace, which houses more than 200 of the renowned giant faces, is situated one level higher. A circular central tower rises to a height of 43 meters.

Bayon stands as the final state temple constructed within the Angkor complex. Commissioned by the eminent Buddhist monarch, King Jayavarman VII, its construction commenced towards the latter part of his reign, specifically in the late 12th or early 13th century. Initially designed as a Mahayana Buddhist temple, it underwent significant changes during the rule of King Jayavarman VIII, when the empire temporarily reverted to Hinduism in the mid-13th century. Subsequent modifications were made under the Theravada Buddhist kings in the years that followed.

The most notable characteristic of Bayon has sparked debate among historians. Some contend that the serene faces symbolize the Bodhisattva of compassion, Lokesvara, leading to the term “200 faces of Lokesvara” being commonly used to describe these tranquil visages. Conversely, others argue that the faces are likenesses of King Jayavarman VII, as they closely resemble other statues of the monarch. It is plausible that both interpretations hold validity, given that many Khmer rulers perceived themselves as “god-kings.”

The serene stone faces of Bayon rank among the most iconic images within the Angkor Archaeological Park, and failing to experience them firsthand would be a significant oversight. Bayon is regarded as one of the “big three” sites that every traveler to Angkor should explore, alongside Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm. In addition to the numerous colossal stone faces that gaze down from various angles, the site boasts an impressive collection of well-preserved bas-relief carvings that illustrate a fascinating blend of historical, mythological, and everyday scenes.

While Bayon is relatively compact compared to many other temples, it is advisable to allocate at least two hours to navigate its intricate network of chambers, passages, and occasionally steep staircases. The site offers ample shade, making it a comfortable visit at any time of day; however, to avoid the crowds, an afternoon visit is recommended. Unique photographic opportunities abound, and a guide can assist in identifying the best vantage points, including the popular shot of visitors positioned “nose to nose” with one of the monumental heads. The interplay of light varies significantly throughout the day, influenced by the temple’s complex architecture and the shade cast by surrounding trees. There is minimal direct sunlight shortly after sunrise and just before sunset.

Bayon is situated at the heart of the Angkor Thom complex, exactly 1.5 kilometers from both the northern and southern gates, allowing access from various points. In contrast to numerous other temples in Angkor, Bayon lacks moats and enclosing walls, as it is safeguarded by the city of Angkor Thom on all sides. Being a component of the Small Circuit, Bayon is conveniently accessible from any direction due to the surrounding road network. Please reach out to us to organize a trustworthy tuk-tuk or taxi driver to guide you through the park.

While Phnom Penh may lack the grandeur of the nearby Angkor temples, the allure of its coastal regions, or the excitement of the eastern jungles, it still captivates visitors, encouraging them to extend their stay. Its relatively small size, especially when compared to other major Asian capitals, contributes to its charm as a vibrant and welcoming destination, where one can experience a blend of challenging historical narratives and hopeful progress.